A well-tailored suit is the cornerstone of a sharp and confident look. Whether you’ve purchased a new suit or have a favourite one that needs a bit of attention, the right fit can make all the difference. In the UK, where the tailoring tradition runs deep, knowing how to get your suit adjusted to perfection is crucial. Here’s your ultimate guide on how to tailor your suit for the perfect fit, step by step.
Measure Accurately
Before diving into the world of adjustments, it’s essential to take accurate measurements. A poorly measured suit will never fit correctly, no matter how skilled the tailor. You’ll need measurements for your chest, waist, hip, inseam, sleeve length, and shoulder width. It’s best to get a professional to do this for you, as they’ll have the expertise to ensure everything is precise. If you're measuring yourself, use a soft measuring tape and have someone help you for the most accurate results.
Focus on Shoulder Alignment
The shoulders are the most important part of the suit fit, and they can make or break the overall look. When a suit jacket fits well in the shoulders, it will automatically look sharper and more polished. The seam of the jacket should align with the edge of your shoulder bone, with no bunching or pulling. If the shoulders of your suit are too tight, they’ll cause the fabric to distort, while if they’re too loose, the jacket will look oversized. Make sure your tailor focuses on this area, as shoulder alterations are tricky and often require expert knowledge to avoid any awkward creases.
Adjust Sleeve Length
The sleeve length is a crucial detail for creating a sophisticated look. Ideally, the sleeve should end just above your wrist bone, allowing about 1 to 1.5 inches of your shirt cuff to show. This is the perfect balance between professional and stylish. If your sleeves are too long, they’ll make your arms look shorter than they are. If they’re too short, you’ll appear dishevelled. It’s worth investing in a tailor who can get the sleeve length just right, as this small adjustment can make a massive difference to your overall look.
Perfect the Trouser Break
When it comes to trousers, the break is all about how the hem hits the top of your shoe. A well-adjusted trouser break can elevate the overall silhouette of your suit. There are three main styles of trouser break:
- Full break: The fabric touches the shoe with a noticeable fold, which is a more traditional and relaxed style.
- Medium break: The trouser rests lightly on the shoe with a slight crease.
- No break: The hem sits just above the shoe with no folding, offering a cleaner, more modern look.
The style you choose depends on your personal taste, but a medium break is usually the most versatile and timeless choice in the UK. When tailoring your trousers, ensure that the break is neither too long nor too short, as this will affect the overall flow of your outfit.
Slim the Waistline
While a well-fitting suit should offer some room for comfort, slimming the waistline can achieve a more tailored, streamlined look. If your suit jacket feels boxy around the midsection, have your tailor take in the sides to create a sharper, more fitted silhouette. This adjustment is especially effective if you’ve gained or lost weight and need your suit to accommodate your changing shape. Be cautious not to go too slim, as this may make the suit look too tight or uncomfortable.
Ensure Jacket Length is Proportional
The length of the suit jacket should always be proportional to your body size and height. Ideally, the jacket should cover your backside and end around the middle of your hand when your arms are at your sides. A jacket that is too short will make your legs look longer, while one that is too long will give you a disproportionate, dated look. If you’re unsure, it’s always a good idea to get a professional tailor’s advice.
Check Lapel Width
Lapel width is a subtle detail that can drastically change the appearance of your suit. Generally, the width of your lapel should correspond to the width of your shoulders. A wider lapel works well for broader frames, while a slimmer lapel suits a more slender build. If you’re aiming for a modern look, a narrow lapel is often a good choice, while more classic styles tend to favour a wider, more substantial lapel. Your tailor can help adjust the lapel width if you’re after a specific style, but keep in mind that the lapel is an integral part of the overall aesthetic of the suit.
Tailor for Movement and Comfort
A suit should not only look great but also allow for movement and comfort. It's important to ensure that the jacket and trousers are tailored in a way that accommodates your daily activities. When trying on the suit after alterations, make sure you can raise your arms, sit down, and walk comfortably without the fabric pulling or restricting your movement. A good tailor will ensure the seams and fabric are stretched appropriately to allow for ease of movement, even after the suit has been tightened.
Choose the Right Tailor
Choosing the right tailor is key to getting the perfect suit fit. A great tailor will understand not only the technicalities of alterations but also how to enhance your individual body shape and style. It’s essential to communicate clearly with your tailor about what you want, whether it’s a more contemporary look or a traditional fit. Read reviews, ask for recommendations from friends or colleagues, and don't hesitate to shop around until you find a tailor who knows exactly how to bring out the best in your suit.
Test the Fit with Accessories
Once your suit is tailored, test the fit with accessories like your shirt, tie, and shoes. Often, adjustments may need to be made after you see how everything works together. For example, if you plan to wear a pocket square or cufflinks, you may find that slight tweaks to sleeve length or the jacket's overall structure are needed. Don't forget to try on your suit with your usual shoes to ensure the trousers fall perfectly at the right length.
Final Thoughts
Tailoring your suit for the perfect fit isn’t just about looking good; it’s about feeling good too. When done right, a tailored suit will not only enhance your confidence but also ensure comfort throughout the day. Focus on accurate measurements, the right fit in key areas like the shoulders, sleeves, and trousers, and find a skilled tailor who can make adjustments that complement your body shape. With these tips, you’ll be able to create a perfectly fitted suit that’s bound to turn heads in the UK and beyond.
